Culture Trek

Posts Tagged ‘Accra’

It seems like all things point to Ghana this month. First, as mentioned in my previous post, Obama visited Cape Coast Castle one year after I too had been there. Then, as I began to revive this blog, a friend interviewed me for “The Ones Who are Mad to Live” regarding my volunteer experience. Last night, with thoughts of Ghana lingering after the interview, I took my djembe, hand hewn in Ghana, to my first African drumming class in America. I carried with it a mere hint of a memory of my one lesson at the Accra Arts Center last July.

Last night’s class, offered at Albany’s Grand Street Community Arts Center, was just five dollars, a small price to pay for a perfect reintroduction to the djembe. I knew would it be fun. What I wasn’t expecting was Saeed Abbas, a Ghanaian master drummer… from Accra no less. Saeed has been teaching children with special needs in Seattle for several years while Village Volunteers, the Seattle-based non-profit I work for, helps people with special needs in Ghana. Serendipity strikes again.

Only after an online search did I learn that Saeed has played with the National Dance Ensemble in Ghana and performed in theaters and festivals all across the United States, including Washington D.C.’s Kennedy Center. He has played for “dignitaries” such as President Clinton, Queen Elizabeth 11 and Tony Blair, and here he was guest teaching me “Fanga Alafia” in a drum circle of 9 on his way back from playing a Rhode Island festival. What a gift!

The lesson was very easy going in feel, if not challenging in technique. I felt a bit inexperienced and shy at the start but we were making music in no time. It was good to join others in song, especially one about peace and welcoming.

My friend Kate came too and we shared notes over dinner afterward so as not to forget the rhythm and lyrics. I wrote “Fun guy a laughia” which was a fun interpretation but not quite right. Hammering out the rhythm with battered hands on my drive home, I used the wheel center for the bass and the outer ring for slaps. Kate and I also traded lyric pages and YouTube Videos once we returned to our computers. By this afternoon, I could finally sing and play simultaneuously using the correct words.

I learned the true value of my drum when hearing it with the others. I knew it was special for sentimental reasons, but the sound is so alive. When I designed my drum, I wanted its voice to be one of peace, unity, knowledge and strength. In Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire, Adrinka symbols visually represent concepts or aphorisms and these are often carved into the drums. To that end, I chose the following:

• Bi-nka-bi: “No one should bite the other.” A symbol of peace and harmony, this symbol cautions against provocation and strife. The image is based on two fish biting each other’s tails.
• Sankofa: “Return and fetch it.” This symbolizes the importance of learning from the past.
• Hye wo nyhe: “That which does not burn.” This symbolizes?imperishability and endurance and derives its meaning from traditional priests that were able to walk on fire without burning their feet, an inspiration to others to endure and overcome difficulties.

Peace, unity, knowledge and strength were certainly prominent themes last night. What a wonderful celebration of my one year anniversary, if only in my own mind.

July 9th

Leaving Accra

After breakfast, Gunadiish and Christian lugged our bags into a vehicle, helped us to buy phone cards and exchange money. The nearest bank told me that only the main office in central Accra will cash travelers checks. Unfortunately, that was just too far away. I headed instead for the nearest ATM.

Having tested my new Visa check card by making a purchase in the US, this was an interesting time to learn that my card has a different pin number than my husband’s with whom I share the account. Mine I do not know. Nothing could be done about it today, nor will there be an opportunity this week. With the vehicle loaded up as tightly as the night before (minus Gunadiish who wished us luck and said the seatbelts in this vehicle were working) we set off on a three hour journey toward the Volta Region… to a village with no banks or ATM’s. With a small bit of money on me, I’m not in too much trouble but I’ll need to sort this out by next weekend.

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Tim, I tried to Skype but you aren’t connected. Web service here is touch and go at best. I’m pasting this from the memory stick… Glad we planned for that. I don’t now when I’ll next be in touch. Cell phone is acquired and I will buy minutes for it today. I’ll be in touch ASAP and I love you.

I Made It!

As I write, I am in Accra at the home of Gunadiish, the In-Country Coordinator (an all around jovial and hospitable guy). Since he guarantees that I’ll pass out shortly, as most early morning arrivals tend to do, I won’t fight the moment when exhaustion trumps excitement. For now, that hasn’t happened.

How It All Went Down

JFK’s Delta terminal was a madhouse yesterday, teeming with those who were stranded like me the day before. I found my way to the automated check-in kiosk but was told I had to see a ticket agent. That’s when I discovered that Accra has it’s own check-in area, with good reason. The number of bags people were transporting was astounding. One guy was charged nearly $500 with the new fees and he was less than prepared for the big surprise.

Once checked in, I met a family in security. Better stated, they met me. Two young boys going to Ghana had a million questions about where I was going and why. By the end of our conversation, I had been adopted. They were from Long Island so I scored points for having a husband from Brooklyn. When we got to the gate they were sure to tell their mom, “We need four seats, three for us and one for her.” I then heard stories about how their aunt and uncle owned a bank in Accra. “They don’t just work there, they own it. That means we’ll get FREE MONEY when we get there! FREE Money!” I didn’t have the heart to tell them anything different.

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It has been an overwhelming two months with final papers, graduation, the never ending basement reconstruction and family responsibilities galore. Through it all, I have been scrambling in preparation for my trip to Ghana, a rush that began on May 23rd with the following introduction from Florinda at Village Volunteers:

Please help me welcome Kim Clune to Village Volunteers International Organization.

We should all be honored that Kim has chosen to volunteer with Village Volunteers and be a part of your village family. We know the camaraderie and friendships that develop between community leaders, villagers and volunteers will enrich all of our lives and keep us all connected for years to come?

Kim is a writer/photographer with a passion for genealogy. Kim has traveled the world as an international flight attendant. From a young age, Kim had the desire to join the Peace Corps but her family strongly dissuaded her. When she first read about the Village Volunteers memory box project, her heart fluttered.

Kim knows the joy and healing that can be experienced through remembering (having healed rifts and mended false perceptions in her own family through a genealogical photo preservation project). Kim would like to help empower young girls by allowing them to see their own self worth and potential, allowing each child to realize together that they hold the power to change their lives. Spending a great deal of time in her own garden with no fear of getting her hands dirty, Kim’s interest in learning environmentally sound/organic farming, water preservation and solar technologies is strong. Homeopathy is something she knows little about but has a desire to assist with.

PLEASE NOTE: Kim is a vegetarian

Next came a letter on May 24th from Paul Kpai, director of the Environmental Development Youth Movement in Have, Ghana where I’ll be staying.

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